Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Ya Gotta Have Friends.....

A shout out to my fellow artists and friends who meet on Wednesday mornings to share ideas and inspire each other. Some weeks are more inspiring than others but I cherish coming every week - even if I haven't done my homework. This morning we were bidding farewell to Laura shortly before her move to Atlanta.
Pictured:Lise Aug, Elise Margolis, Me, Laura Freeman , Alma Stoller , Camilla Marstrand Golden 
Not pictured: Donna Levinstone , Patricia Childers

Resizing a Twig Solitaire Ring

If your Twig Solitaire needs to be re-sized, here are some instructions you can bring to your local jeweler.... 

Making your ring smaller:
Because of the continuous detail on the band, it's best if your jeweler removes a section from the front of the ring, right beside the stone. If a small piece is removed from the inside, near your palm, the two ends will have to be hand engraved to recreate the texture.   Please be sure to tell your jeweler EXACTLY where you would like the piece removed from.  One side has a small bud and taking out a slice from that side will change the overall appearance of the ring.
Here are the steps:
cut on top
remove section
reshape
solder using 18K Plumb Gold Solder
file any rough spots
Polish very lightly

Making your ring larger:
Either a piece can be inserted into the back inside of the ring or it can also be made a little larger by filing the inside of the ring.  Please note that this second option will remove the natural organic pattern from the inside of the ring resulting in a smooth surface.
To enlarge by adding a piece:
Cut band in back near palm
Solder in new section using 18K Plumb Gold Solder
File rough edges
Reshape
Hand Engrave texture into new section

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Featured on the Etsy Wedding Team Blog


The Etsy Wedding Team featured my work on their blog.  You can read my interview here:     Etsy Wedding Team Blog

Rapaport Diamond Conference 2009

I recently attended the Rapaport Diamond Conference here in NYC. It was hosted by NY Diamond industry legend, Martin Rapaport. You may be familiar with him from his 2008 documentary, Diamond Road. The annual full day symposium was packed with compelling lectures by experts in the diamond industry business as well as directors of non-for profit human rights groups and Government representatives.

By far the hottest topic was the afternoon panel discussion on human rights violations in mining. The Kimberly Process came under fire - it was created to eliminate civil warfare where diamond profits are used to fund illegal rebel military and terrorist groups. The purpose of the KP is to document and track all rough diamonds leaving and entering a participating country. Stones from these countries are sealed in tamper-proof shipping crates and are accounted for with detailed information about origin to prove they did not originate in a conflict zone.

The KP is not a perfect solution and long term goals take time to achieve. I believe that having the Kimberly Process in place is a step in the right direction but not the ultimate answer. A central authority, strict peer review process with follow-up and more transparency are essential. Specifically, human rights violations at the Marange mine in Zimbabwe are alarming and need to be addressed. Although the vast majority of participant countries are in compliance with KP, when violators are not dismissed it undermines the ultimate power of the pact.

So, what's a compassionate consumer and jewelry designer to do?

The jewelry industry is consumer driven and our collective voices carry weight. While it's difficult to make big changes on a global scale here are some small things we can do:
-Use antique stones. I liken this to adopting a rescue dog as opposed to supporting puppy-mills by buying puppies in pet shops. Like with rescue dogs, we don't know the origin of a stone but we can rest assured knowing that by adopting and long ago mined stone we are not contributing to any present day human rights violations. There are charming antique stones available, at no additional cost. They can often be identified by their Old Mine or European cuts. I'll write more about this in a future post.
-Buy new stones from reputable sources
-Press for more transparency in mining and distribution. If we can track our car being manufactured step by step why shouldn't we be able to trace where a stone was mined and cut? I believe that this will be more possible in the future, just wanted to plant the seed here.
-Learn about and support vital organizations. Here are a few: